427 Cobra
Trunk Latch
Change Order
Chronological Order
Main
Ordering
Receiving
Inventory
Fuel Tank
Brackets
Powder Coating
Engine Build
Frame Dolly
Frame Problems
Fuel Lines
Air Breather
Headers
Aligning The Body
Wheels
Clutch
Brake Lines
Pipes
Radiator
Roll Bars
Rear Axle
Body Mounting
Steering
Dash
Pedals
Engine Stand
Front Suspension
Engine Mount
Transmission Mount
Seats
Emergency Brake
Trunk Hinges
Trunk Latch
Trunk Lid Support
Door Latch
Door Striker
Door Fit
Hood
Hood Support
Rear Bumper
Gas Cap
Roll Bars Thru Body
Convertable Top
Wiring Trunk
Wiring Dash
Wiring
Wipers
Final Assemble

The StreetBeast manual suggested that the trunk be opened with a manual pull cable that would be located behind the driver seat. I didn't like the security of this type of setup.  So I decided to go with an electric solenoid to release the latch. Also I made a few other changes as you will see below.

The StreetBeast manual suggested the latch be installed by cutting a hole in the top of the fiberglass section and drop the latch in from the top.  I didn't see the point in cutting the hole in the top.  So I cut out the bottom of the section and slid the latch in place.

Using a piece of 2x2 aluminum angle I made a bracket to mount the solenoid next to the hinge.

Using a throttle cable, I purchased from Parr Automotive for 18 dollars, I connected the solenoid to the latch.

I had to make a bracket to secure each end of the cable.

Using three clamps with self tapping screws I secured the cable to the lid.

Next, I located where the striker would be and drilled a pilot hole.

Here is another change from the StreetBeast manual.

They suggested we drill and tap this hole.  I have a fear of closing the trunk and the latch failing to release.  Using their method, you would have to cut a hole somewhere in the trunk, big enough to get your hand through and blindly fix the problem.

Instead of doing it their way, I chose to drill a 1/2 inch hole all the way through the floor. I put a nut on the top and bottom of the striker.  Therefore if the latch should fail to release, all I will have to do is remove the bottom nut of the striker using a 3/4 inch socket and ratchet.  Then you can pull the trunk lid open.