The engine block had a raised rib just below the engine that interfered with attaching the rubber mounts.
As you can see the mounts would not sit flat.
So I had to grind away a little of the block to get the mounts to fit.
This is what it looked like after grinding.
These motor mounts are extremely strong with steel completely surrounding the rubber for extra strength. The mounts are made by Energy Suspension and were purchased from JEGS for $115.99 per set.
The Frame to Engine Brackets that were supplied from StreetBeasts did not fit. So I had to build the Frame to Engine Brackets.
First, I checked the clearance from the oil filter and frame to insure we could change the filter. After removing and reinstalling the filter, I had a good idea of the clearance needed.
Then, I had to sit the body on the frame and check the header and pipes coming thru the body opening.
I also had to check the height and clearance of the hood to the air breather.
Then using the yellow engine stands that I fabricated, I was able to position the engine. I then replaced the engine stands with Frame Brackets.
The Frame Brackets.
You can't see it in these pictures but the first bracket is slotted so I can make a small adjustment up or down if needed.
The top bracket is also slotted so I can make small adjustments right or left.
Now I have tightened up all bolts.
These are temporary bolts.
This is bracket was necessary to add strength to the frame that was required for bolting. I welded filled the old bolt holes and made new ones where the were needed.
All bolts are 7/16 inch grade 8. Except the bolt going through the tube, it is a 1/2 inch grade 8.
All nuts are grade 8 lock nuts.
The brackets are made from 3/16 x 3 inch steel.
I'm checking the engine for level right to left by putting a level on the intake manifold.
Next I mount the transmission.