427 Cobra
Change Order
Chronological Order
Fuel Tank
Powder Coating
Engine Build
Frame Dolly
Frame Problems
Fuel Lines
Air Breather
Aligning The Body
Brake Lines
Roll Bars
Rear Axle
Body Mounting
Engine Stand
Front Suspension
Engine Mount
Transmission Mount
Emergency Brake
Trunk Hinges
Trunk Latch
Trunk Lid Support
Door Latch
Door Striker
Door Fit
Hood Support
Rear Bumper
Gas Cap
Roll Bars Thru Body
Convertable Top
Wiring Trunk
Wiring Dash
Final Assemble

We got the "Safety Block Plate" from JEGS for $71.99.  We had to grind off nut plate next to where the starter mounts and drill 5 extra holes in it.

Then we temporarily mounted it to the engine block.

Next we mounted the flywheel using 6 each 7/16 - 20 x 1 bolts and Red Threadlocker.

For about $20 you should invest in a clutch alignment tool.

Now we mount the pressure plate using 6 each 8 mm - 1.25 x 30mm bolts and Red Threadlocker.  Carefully center the clutch plate before you tighten the pressure plate.

We have chosen a hydraulic release bearing from RAM Clutches.  We added a remote bleed kit.

The clutch comes with 9 spacers, we used 7 to set the gap from the bearing and the clutch fingers.

With the bearing in place and using a straight edge measure the from the bell housing face to the bearing.  In order to make it easier to work the caliper I actually measured from the outer edge of the straight edge.  It doesn't matter as long as you are consistent on where you measure from.

Measure from the pressure plate to the engine block plate.

And then from the pressure plate to the fingers.

Then by doing the math you can calculate the gap from the fingers to the fingers.  This gap should be at least .150 inches but not more then .200 inches.  The closer you get the .200 the better.  As the clutch wears the gap will get smaller, so if the gap is less then .150 then you run the risk of the fingers touching all the time and the clutch may not disengage.  If the gap is more then .200, you run the risk damaging the bearing's hydraulic thruster.